Helpful video reference. Herschel Infrared Ltd, a UK infrared heating manufacturer, share a qualified electrician's account of the installation process in their video "Installing Herschel Infrared Heating: An Electrician's Experience". It covers real-world mounting, wiring and commissioning decisions that are directly relevant to a domestic UK installation.
1. Choose the right panel size
Infrared panels are sized in watts, and the wattage you need depends on room volume and insulation. Manufacturers publish sizing charts - use them rather than converting from convection heater rules. As a rough guide, a well-insulated 15 m² room might suit a 600 W panel; a poorly insulated conservatory of the same size could need 900 W or more.
Infrared warms objects and surfaces rather than air, which makes it more effective in draughty rooms than a convection heater of the same wattage. Even so, upsizing a panel to compensate for draughts is a poor substitute for addressing the draughts themselves.
2. Choose the mounting position
Ceiling mounting at around 2 m above floor level gives the best radiant coverage because the panel has a clear line of sight to the whole room. Wall mounting works in smaller rooms or where ceiling access is restricted. The panel should face the area where people sit or work - a panel on the wall behind you provides little benefit.
Check the manufacturer's minimum clearance dimensions before fixing. Most panels require at least 20 cm clear of adjacent surfaces if wall-mounted, and a specific minimum gap below the ceiling if ceiling-mounted. Fitting closer than the stated clearances risks heat damage to the mounting surface over time.
3. Plan the electrical supply
Most domestic infrared panels up to around 1000 W can be supplied from a switched fused connection unit on an existing ring main. Match the FCU fuse to the panel load: a 600 W panel draws about 2.6 A at 230 V, so a 3 A fuse is correct. A 13 A fuse is not a substitute for correct sizing.
For panels above 1000 W, or where you are installing several panels together, run a dedicated radial circuit from the consumer unit. Use 2.5 mm² twin and earth for a 20 A radial, or 1.5 mm² for a 16 A radial if the calculated load suits it. Run the cable to the panel position before fixing the bracket.
4. Fix the mounting bracket
Mark the bracket positions using a spirit level. Before drilling, pass a stud and cable detector over the ceiling or wall - panels are often fitted above living areas where cables and pipes run through the ceiling void.
Infrared panels are heavier than they look. A 600 W glass panel can weigh 6 kg or more. Fix to a joist, a batten noggin between joists on a plasterboard ceiling, or masonry with suitable wall anchors. Dry lining alone will not hold a panel safely over its service life.
5. Connect the electrical supply
With the circuit isolated and confirmed dead, connect the supply at the FCU. Position the FCU where it can be reached easily - the panel itself may be on the ceiling, so a switched FCU on a nearby wall is the normal arrangement.
Most panels have a flying lead or a terminal block on the back edge. Some come with bare conductors; others provide a short flex with bootlace ferrules. Connect live to live, neutral to neutral and earth to earth. If the panel has a metal frame, the earth is essential - not optional.
6. Add thermostat control
A panel wired to an unswitched FCU runs continuously whenever the FCU is on. For efficient heating, add thermostat control. The main options are:
- Switched FCU - the simplest option; you switch the panel on and off manually.
- Wired thermostat - the thermostat interrupts the switched live to the FCU, turning the panel on and off automatically to maintain the set temperature.
- Wireless thermostat - a plug-in receiver connects between the FCU and panel; a battery-powered thermostat placed in the room sends on/off signals to the receiver.
Confirm the thermostat or receiver is rated for the panel's load in watts. A thermostat rated at 3 kW handles a 600 W panel comfortably, but always check the specification before buying.
7. Fix the panel and test
Hang the panel on its bracket, secure any retaining clips or locking screws, and route the panel flex neatly - use cable clips or surface conduit to keep the flex away from the heat face of the panel and tidy against the ceiling or wall. Restore power at the consumer unit.
Allow 15 minutes for the panel to reach full operating temperature. Pass your hand close (without touching) across the face to check it heats evenly. Set the thermostat a few degrees above room temperature and wait for the panel to switch off when the target is reached, then confirm it switches back on as the room cools. Any tripping, flickering or smell of burning means switch off and investigate before using the panel again.
When to call us
Running a new circuit for a panel, or wiring a set of panels in a home office or extension, is notifiable work under Part P. It requires the correct cable sizing, a suitable protective device and an Electrical Installation Certificate or Minor Works Certificate. Richard covers Sandwich and east Kent and can supply and certify the installation as Part P compliant.
Infrared panel wiring in Sandwich and east Kent
Richard can run a dedicated circuit, make the connections and issue the certificate. One visit, everything sorted.
Contact Richard