Helpful video reference. Credit Electric Radiators Direct (UK-based electric heating supplier). Electric Radiators Direct's installation guide uses the Ecostrad iQ Ceramic as the example unit and walks through wall-mounting, bracket spacing, levelling and commissioning. The steps shown translate well to other makes and models. Watch on YouTube.
1. Choose plug-in or hardwired
A plug-in electric radiator connects to a standard 13A socket. This suits units up to about 2.3kW (the safe continuous load limit for a 13A socket) and makes the installation straightforward: no new cable, no Part P notification, no electrician needed.
Hardwired connection via a fused connection unit (FCU) is appropriate for radiators above 2kW, for installations where no suitable socket is nearby, or where a dedicated circuit is preferred for a bedroom or living room. A dedicated circuit from the consumer unit is the most flexible option and is Part P notifiable work.
2. Choose the location and mark the bracket positions
Most electric radiators mount on a pair of wall brackets. Check the manufacturer's drawing for the bracket spacing. Hold the brackets against the wall at the correct height, typically 100 to 150mm from the floor to the bottom of the unit. Mark the fixing holes with a pencil.
Use a stud finder for plasterboard and check for cables and pipes with a detector. For a hardwired installation, plan the cable route from the FCU to the back of the radiator at this stage.
3. Fix the wall brackets
Drill and plug the holes appropriate for the wall type (masonry, stud wall, plasterboard). Use the fixings supplied or equivalent-rated alternatives. Check with a spirit level across both brackets before driving the final screws. A sloping radiator will not hang correctly and may affect the built-in programmer display.
4. Fit the cable or confirm the socket position (hardwired only)
For a hardwired radiator, run 1.5mm² T&E cable (for loads up to 2.5kW at typical domestic cable lengths) from the switched FCU to the connection point on the radiator. Some radiators connect via a flex tail factory-fitted to the unit; others have a terminal block inside the casing. Follow the wiring diagram in the manufacturer's instructions.
The FCU should be surface-mounted or flush-mounted on the adjacent wall, accessible for switching off if needed.
5. Hang the radiator and connect
Lift the radiator onto the wall brackets (most slide down onto the bracket hooks). If hardwired, connect the cable cores to the appropriate terminals: brown to L, blue to N, green and yellow sleeved earth to E. For models with a factory-fitted flex, plug the flex into a switched socket or connect to the FCU load terminals. Check the cable is not trapped between the radiator body and the wall.
6. Commission and set the controls
Switch on at the FCU or socket. Most modern electric radiators have a built-in thermostat and a 24-hour programmer. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to set the target temperature and schedule. Run the radiator for a few minutes and check there is no unusual smell and that the casing warms evenly. A burning smell on first use is often the protective coating burning off and is normal for the first hour.
When to call us
Hanging a plug-in electric radiator is straightforward DIY. Running a spur from an existing ring final circuit to a switched FCU, or putting in a dedicated radial circuit, is where an electrician earns their call-out fee. Richard fits electric heating circuits across Sandwich and east Kent: it's a short job when it's done correctly from the start.
Electric heating circuit in Sandwich?
Richard installs electric heating circuits, FCUs and dedicated radial feeds across east Kent.
Contact Richard