Helpful video reference. The GSH Electrical Training tutorial "Connections in 3 Switch Fuse Connection Units (Switch Fuse Spurs) Layout of the Terminals Explained" is used as the reference here. GSH Electrical Training produces UK-specific content for electricians in training, so the terminal layouts and wiring methods shown are consistent with BS 7671 and UK practice.
1. What an FCU is and when to use one
An FCU, or fused connection unit, is a socket without a plug. It connects a permanently installed appliance directly to the circuit wiring, with a cartridge fuse built into the unit to protect the appliance's flex or the cable between the FCU and the appliance. Common uses include:
- Electric towel rails and panel heaters
- Extractor fans (cooker hood, bathroom, utility)
- Boiler power supplies and central heating timers
- Under-floor heating thermostats
- Outdoor lighting supplies taken through the wall
You would not use an FCU for an appliance that gets plugged and unplugged regularly. Those need a socket outlet.
2. Choose the right FCU type
Three common types:
- Switched FCU — has a double-pole rocker switch that isolates both live and neutral. Use this where you want a local isolation point for the appliance.
- Unswitched FCU — no switch, just the fuse. Used where isolation is not needed at the FCU itself (for example, behind a boiler where the boiler has its own switch).
- FCU with flex outlet — has a cord grip and strain relief built in, for appliances with a fixed flex that connects directly into the unit rather than to a separate back box.
3. Choose the correct fuse rating
This is the most common mistake made with FCUs. The fuse should be sized to protect the cable or flex between the FCU and the appliance, not the circuit the FCU is connected to.
- 3A fuse — for motors, fans, boiler controls and anything drawing less than 700W
- 13A fuse — for electric towel rails, panel heaters and resistive loads above 700W
If the existing FCU had a 3A fuse, replace it with a 3A. Do not substitute a 13A just because that is what is in the drawer.
4. Isolate the circuit and confirm dead
Switch off the relevant ring main or radial circuit at the consumer unit. Test the supply point with a voltage tester before touching a single conductor. If you are not sure which circuit feeds the supply point, turn everything off and work methodically back to the correct breaker.
5. Identify Line In and Line Out terminals
Open the old FCU and photograph the terminal connections before removing anything. FCU terminals are typically arranged in two groups:
- Line In / Mains / IN — the supply from the ring main or spur (this side carries mains voltage even when the FCU switch is off)
- Line Out / Load / OUT — the cable going to the appliance (this side is isolated when the FCU switch is off)
The fuse bridges these two sets of terminals, so the appliance side is protected. Getting IN and OUT the wrong way round means the fuse sits on the wrong side of the switch, leaving live conductors on the appliance side after you switch off.
6. Connect the supply side (IN)
On the new FCU, connect the supply conductors to the IN terminals:
- Brown (live) to the Line In / L terminal
- Blue (neutral) to the Neutral In / N terminal
- Green/yellow (earth) to the earth terminal
Tighten each screw firmly enough that the conductor cannot be pulled free by hand.
7. Connect the appliance side (OUT)
Connect the cable going to the appliance to the OUT or LOAD terminals, matching brown to live, blue to neutral, and green/yellow to earth. If the FCU has a flex outlet, follow the manufacturer's fitting instructions for securing the flex in the cord grip and making off the cable ends.
8. Fit the fuse, refit and test
Insert the correct fuse cartridge. Fold the cables neatly into the back box, taking care not to trap any insulation under the faceplate. Fit the faceplate screws evenly. Restore the circuit at the consumer unit and test the appliance.
When to call us
Replacing a like-for-like FCU on an existing spur is tidy DIY territory. Running new cable to create a new FCU position, or wiring an FCU for a high-load appliance, is work that needs certifying. Richard covers small electrical jobs in Sandwich at £10 per 10 minutes.
Need an FCU fitted in Sandwich?
From a single fused spur to a full kitchen wiring run, Richard quotes fixed prices before any work starts.
Contact Richard