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How-to · UK domestic

How to install a wireless intruder alarm

Wireless systems have made DIY burglar alarm installation genuinely practical for most homeowners. No chasing cables, no pulling up carpets — just careful sensor placement, correct panel programming, and an understanding of what Grade 2 means and why it matters to your insurer.

Helpful video reference. We use Guardfather Security's UK installation walkthrough "Best DIY Wireless Burglar Alarm UK (2026) – Full Guardfather Intruder Alarm Setup & Installation" as the video reference here. Guardfather are a UK security company and the video covers the full process in a real home, including panel mounting, sensor pairing and siren siting.

Before you start. A wireless intruder alarm itself requires no mains wiring beyond a single fused spur for the control panel — that spur is notifiable under Part P if you are running new cable from the consumer unit. If the panel has its own plug-in power supply you can use an existing socket instead. Check your insurer's minimum requirements before buying a system: some policies specify Grade 2 (BS EN 50131) or a particular installation standard, and fitting below that grade could invalidate a claim.

1. Choose the right system grade

UK domestic alarm systems are graded under BS EN 50131. Grade 1 covers low-risk properties; Grade 2 is standard for most homes and is the minimum most household insurers recognise. Grade 3 applies to high-risk commercial premises. Stick to Grade 2 for a domestic install.

Popular UK wireless Grade 2 systems include Yale Smart Living, Pyronix Enforcer, Visonic PowerMaster, and Texecom Premier Elite. Buy from a UK security trade supplier or directly from the manufacturer's UK site so you get the correct radio frequency (868 MHz is standard in Europe; 433 MHz systems intended for other markets may not meet BS EN 50131).

2. Plan sensor positions before you drill anything

Draw a rough floor plan and mark every ground-floor door and window, the internal staircase, and any upstairs rooms containing high-value items. A standard PIR covers a 90-degree cone to around 10–12 metres; it detects movement crossing its detection pattern, not approaching directly towards it.

3. Site and power the control panel

The control panel needs a permanent mains supply. Most Grade 2 panels include a sealed lead-acid or lithium backup battery that sustains the system for at least 12 hours (BS EN 50131 requirement) if the mains is cut.

Mount the panel on a solid inner wall — inside a hallway cupboard is ideal. It should not be visible from outside through a window, and it needs to be within signal range of all sensors (check the manufacturer's quoted wireless range and halve it for real-world conditions through walls).

If you are running a new spur from the consumer unit, that work is notifiable under Part P and must be certified by a qualified electrician or registered competent person.

4. Mount the keypad near the entry door

The keypad goes on the wall beside your main entry door, at roughly 1.2–1.4 m height. You need to reach and enter your code within the programmed entry delay (set this to 20–30 seconds — long enough to be comfortable, short enough to discourage a determined intruder who knows the delay).

The keypad is usually a separate wireless device that pairs to the panel. Some systems combine the keypad and panel in one unit; others use a separate touchscreen proximity reader. Pair and test the keypad before committing to its position.

5. Pair and position PIR sensors

Most wireless PIRs pair to the panel via a simple walk-test or button sequence described in the manual. Do this with the sensor held at its intended mounting position before drilling. The panel will confirm signal strength — aim for at least 75% signal at the mounting position; below 50% will cause missed triggers or dropouts over time.

Mount PIRs in corners at 2.1–2.4 m high, angled so the detection pattern sweeps across the room. Fix using the supplied bracket and two rawl plugs; a spirit level ensures the lens angle is correct. Pet-immune PIRs use a downward-only detection zone — they must be mounted at exactly the height stated by the manufacturer for the immunity to work correctly.

6. Fit door and window contacts

Magnetic door contacts consist of two parts: the transmitter (wired to the panel in older systems, wireless in modern ones) goes on the fixed frame; the magnet goes on the moving door or window leaf. The two parts must align within 10 mm when the door is closed — measure carefully and use a spirit level on both halves.

On a UPVC door, fix contacts to the top or hinge side of the frame where there is more surface area. On a wooden door, use countersunk screws so the magnet sits flush and does not prevent the door from closing fully.

7. Site and mount the external siren box

The bell box is the visible deterrent. Mount it at least 2.5 m above ground on a prominent elevation — typically the front wall between the ground and first floor windows. It must be tamper-protected: the anti-tamper spring or switch inside must be correctly activated, and the fixing screws must not be accessible from a standard ladder without opening the box.

Keep the bell box well clear of guttering and drainpipes that could provide a climbing route to the unit. The siren must have its own backup battery: under BS EN 50131 it must operate independently of the main panel for at least four hours.

8. Programme zones, entry delay and notifications

Once all devices are paired, set entry and exit delays. A 20–30 second entry delay on the front door zone is normal; all other zones (interior PIRs, rear door) should be immediate. Set the external siren to cut off after 15 minutes as required by BS EN 50131 — a siren that continues beyond 15 minutes can lead to a noise nuisance notice from the local authority.

Register the system with the manufacturer's app so you receive push notifications on your phone when the alarm triggers or the tamper is activated. If you want professional monitoring (a monitoring centre calls you and the police when the alarm activates), contact an NSI or SSAIB registered alarm company — self-install systems can often be linked to a monitoring centre for a monthly subscription.

Notify your insurer once the system is in place. Some policies offer a premium reduction for BS EN 50131 Grade 2 systems; a few require NSI/SSAIB certification for the full reduction.

Stop and call a professional if: the panel requires a new mains spur from the consumer unit (Part P notifiable work), you find existing wiring in the wall that is affected by drilling, the system produces persistent false alarms after installation (a common cause is a sensor with marginal signal strength), or you want professional monitoring with police response, which requires NSI or SSAIB certification.

When to call us

The electrical element of a wireless alarm install — a fused spur for the panel — is straightforward work. Richard can add a spur on a small local job at the £10 per 10-minute rate. If the installation turns up wiring that needs attention, that can usually be dealt with in the same visit.

Need a spur fitted for an alarm panel in Sandwich?

Richard provides a fused spur on small local jobs. Phone or WhatsApp with a photo of the consumer unit and proposed panel location.

Contact Richard

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