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How-to · UK domestic

How to install a switch fuse isolator unit

A switch fuse isolator unit sits between your main consumer unit and a sub-board - typically for an outbuilding supply or a dedicated EV distribution board. It provides local isolation and overcurrent protection in one compact enclosure. This guide explains what the job involves and why the earthing checks matter as much as the connections themselves.

Helpful video reference. The video above by R Davis Electrical shows a 100A switch fuse isolator being installed in a real UK domestic setting. It covers the key points: how the incoming sub-main terminates, how the earth path is maintained, and how the enclosure is fitted to a backing board. The UK context is clear throughout - correct cable colours, isolation procedure and consumer unit reference.

Before you start. Work on main tails or sub-main cables should only be carried out by a qualified electrician. If the incoming cable is live at the point of connection, you must achieve safe isolation at the upstream consumer unit or distribution board before touching any conductor. Confirm dead at all terminals with an approved voltage tester - never assume.

1. Choose the right switch fuse rating

A switch fuse is rated in amps and must be selected to suit both the design current of the downstream load and the prospective fault current at the point of installation. Common domestic ratings are 60A, 80A and 100A. The 100A unit used in the video above is typical for outbuilding sub-mains and EV distribution boards where the full capacity of a 100A meter supply might need to be available.

The fuse element inside the unit provides overcurrent protection, so the fuse rating must not exceed the cable rating. Check the manufacturer's datasheet for the maximum fuse size and confirm that the cable you are connecting can carry the rated current under the actual installation conditions - in conduit, buried, clipped direct and so on.

2. Isolate safely before touching anything

Safe isolation is the foundation of the whole job. Switch off the circuit at the upstream consumer unit, lock it out if your board has a hasp, and test at the point where you intend to make connections. For a 100A supply, this means testing phase-to-neutral, phase-to-earth and neutral-to-earth with a calibrated voltage tester. All three readings must read zero.

If you cannot achieve isolation at the consumer unit - for instance because the board is shared - contact your DNO or a qualified electrician before proceeding. Never work on conductors you cannot safely isolate.

3. Fix the enclosure on a non-combustible surface

Switch fuse units must be mounted on a non-combustible backing board - typically 18mm plywood treated with fire retardant paint, or directly onto a masonry wall. Fix the enclosure level, with the cable entry knockouts aligned with the incoming cable route. Leave enough room below or beside the unit for cable glands, conduit entries or armoured cable terminations.

In a garage or outbuilding, position the unit as close as practicable to the point where the armoured cable enters the building. This minimises the length of unprotected tails on the load side.

4. Prepare and terminate the incoming sub-main conductors

Strip the outer sheath of the incoming cable to the depth needed to reach the terminals cleanly. On SWA (steel wire armoured) cable, terminate the armour correctly with a brass gland and earth tail - the armour provides the circuit protective conductor on TN-C-S supplies, so this connection is critical.

Strip each conductor to the terminal depth shown in the manufacturer's instructions. Apply correct ferrules if the terminal requires them, and fit green-and-yellow sleeving over any bare earth conductors. Connect line (brown), neutral (blue) and earth to the correct terminals and torque each screw to the manufacturer's specified value using a calibrated torque screwdriver.

5. Connect the outgoing circuit cables

The outgoing side of the switch fuse feeds the sub-board or EV consumer unit. These conductors are protected by the switch fuse cartridge, so they must be rated appropriately. Terminate them to the load-side terminals in the same way as the incoming - correct colours, correct stripping depth, correct torque.

If the outgoing cable is a separate length of twin-and-earth or SWA, ensure continuity of the earth path between the switch fuse earth terminal and the earth bar in the downstream board.

6. Verify the earth path

Before closing up, confirm the earth path end-to-end. On a TN-C-S (PME) supply, the earth path runs from the main earth terminal at the consumer unit through the SWA armour (or a separate protective conductor) to the switch fuse earth terminal and on to the sub-board. On a TT earthing system, the outbuilding needs its own earth electrode - you cannot rely on the PME earth for a separate structure.

Use a low-resistance ohmmeter to measure earth continuity between the earth terminal in the main consumer unit and the earth terminal in the switch fuse. The result should be a fraction of an ohm for a short run. Any significant resistance suggests a poor connection or a broken conductor.

7. Close, label and document

Close the enclosure lid. Apply a durable label identifying the circuit fed by the switch fuse - for example "Garage sub-board" or "EV charger board". If the installation is notifiable under Part P, this is the point at which you arrange the Building Regulations notification through a competent person scheme or the local authority, and complete either a Minor Works Certificate or an Electrical Installation Certificate depending on the scope of work.

Keep a copy of the certificate with the property's electrical documents. Landlords should add it to the property file alongside any EICR.

Stop and call an electrician if: you cannot achieve safe isolation upstream, the incoming cable colours are unfamiliar, the earthing arrangement is not clear, the prospective fault current exceeds the switch fuse rating, or the work is notifiable under Part P and you are not registered with a competent person scheme.

When to call us

Switch fuse installation is firmly in qualified-electrician territory - it involves sub-main connections, earthing decisions and, usually, Part P notification. Richard covers this type of work across east Kent. Call to discuss the job and get a price.

Need a switch fuse installed in Sandwich or east Kent?

Richard fits switch fuse isolator units for outbuilding supplies and EV boards across CT13 and the surrounding area.

Contact Richard

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